I’ve finally gotten around to uploading the pictures from my task of replacing my rear disc brakes on my 2000 Chevrolet Impala LS. They had been scrapping for a few weeks until I got to them. This more of a pictorial of my job than a strict “how-to” post. Partly because I didn’t take any notes as to exact sequence or tools used. This was actually done two weeks ago and I’m going by memory so forgive my lack of foresight in taking notes. I’ll give a play-by-play with the pictures as best I can. Here we go….
In this picture is the rear disc brakes of Impala. As you might guess they’ve been on there quite awhile. This is the first time I’ve done these since buying the car just over 5 years and 86,000 miles ago. They don’t owe me anything as far as I’m concerned. From the normal surface rust they don’t look that bad, just you wait.
No “uber” special tools needed for this job. A basic socket set, some hand wrenches and perhaps the the only “special” tool you may need is a disc pad spreader which are easily purchase for less than $10 at a parts store. These GM brakes are actually two separate parts. One holds the caliper piston(inside) and the other(outer) holds the brake pads. You’ll need to remove 4 bolts. Two for inner caliper and two for the other. I’d advise to drowning these in your favorite spray lubricant. A rubber mallet (or striking device of your choosing) may be needed to break these loose. I got lucky on one or two that came loose fairly easy but some others didn’t cooperate.
It looks as if I’m using a 14mm socket in the top picture and I was loosening the bolts to inner caliper. The outside caliper uses a slightly different size socket.
Advisory: Small children should not be close by as they may accidentally learn some new words.
Here can see a little of the pads. Doesn’t look like much pad left at all.
These are what’s left of my rotors. The outer part of the rotor actually didn’t look bad. When you turned them over it was a different story. This is what happens when your pads run down to bare metal. They were scored pretty bad.
This my nice new brake rotor from AutoZone. They are Duralast Part# 55039, they were about $42.99 a piece(plus tax).
Here we can see that the old pad was down to the metal pad. These were scrapping bad before I changed them.
The pads were Duralast Part #MKD814, also used was a liberal application of disc brake quiet lube(in red).
Pop my wheel back on and I was done. Well I was done on one side. The other side went pretty much the same way. I did make note of some stuff that would have made this job a bit easier.
- Floor Jack – I had to use the regular car jack from the trunk. It’s not the recommended way to do the a brake job. I did have one car(not this one) almost fall on me from a car jack and it certainly got my attention.
- Creeper seat – My rear-end was sore from the milk crate I used for a seat.
- Breaker Bar – To break loose those stubborn bolts.
In all I think this took me about 2-1/2 hours(for both sides) and, I was taking my time doing it too. If your handy with some tools this shouldn’t be a tough job for most do-it-yourselfers. Thanks for coming by and if you have any questions or comments feel free to leave a message below.
P.S. I also have pictures of my front disc brake repair I did in the spring time. I’ll be publishing those very shortly.
