With the purchase of a life size Beetle my interest in smaller collectible die-cast Bugs has increase. Like many small kids I collected Matchboxes and Hot Wheels as a kid. Just the last few months I've gotten more into it. I even came across people on YouTube who restore or customize old Matchboxes and Hot Wheels. Especially the Matchboxes, although I like many Hot Wheels I seem to to be drawn to Matchbox stuff a lot more. It's what I had the most of as a kid.
The restoration of them looked fun and interesting. Not too much different that other models I've made just on a smaller scale. I like restoring something back to life. I've bought a couple of Matchboxes with intent to restore them. One is a 64 Chevy Impala Taxi and the other was a VW Beetle drag racer called Big Blue.
Big Blue was found on Ebay and is model that came out with a few different paints schemes with similar body and chassis. It also had names like "Dragon Wheels" and "Hot Chocolate".
The one I got was in rough shape but all the paint was scratched and missing in many places. A front pillar was missing. The orange windshield was loose and standing legs were mostly missing. The wheels were also misaligned.
Being a VW fan I thought this one would be an interesting one to restore although I'm going for a custom paint job inspired by my life size Bug. In my next installment I'll go over how I got started.
We're in the midst of the holiday season and in the northeast many of us VW enthusiasts have probably put their prized possessions in storage or like me the Bug has taken a back seat as far as attention priorities go. Also it just get's too cold and if you've got no garage like me you depend on nice weather for chances to drive or work on their VW.
WE've been fortunate to have some relative mild weather, at least precipitation wise, so on Christmas Eve day I did take my Bug out for a spin around the neighborhood to stretch the legs out a little. It was nippy but I was only going for a short ride. It was a bit overcast with some very light snow flurries which melted as soon as the hit something. Not enough for them to put salt on the roads which was my primary concern.
I had already parked it under the old leaky awning that has seen better days. I hop in the front seat and flip the light switch above the door and see the light still shining brightly. Good we have power. I put the key in the ignition and turn to see the seat belt light go on, another good sign, and pump the gas a couple of times and turn the key. The engine turns a couple of times before that tell-tale sputter starts. Then the Bug finally comes to life just as if I drove it yesterday. I still love the sound of an air-cooled engine.
I back out of it's spot and head down the road. The flurries were so light even the Bug's wiper's extra slow wipers had no problem keeping the windows cleared. I go quick two mile spin around my neighborhood. Just enough to go thru all the gears a few times and give me a smile, VW's just have a way of doing that to you. I head on home and back her into her winter quarters not know when the drive will be. With a sigh I wonder "Is it spring yet?".
As mentioned in the first part of this repair I found out where my gas was leaking. I finally got around to repairing the leak under my tank. I thought I'd share this follow-up repair.
So my first step was jacking up the passenger side front and remove the wheel to get access under the gas tank. The line that needed replacing is within arms reach. Part of the trick is to replace it quick without spilling too much gas. I did this outside but I'd still advise to work in a ventilated area and be prepared to clean up some spilled gas obviously stay away from sparks or flame.
Before repair.
To minimize spillage I took off the line connected to steel line going to gas tank first and plugged up the line to the tank so it didn't leak a lot. You have to be prepared to do this part quickly as gas will start pouring out.
I cut a piece of the new fuel line. I then pulled the end of the old fuel line that goes to the engine. At first I try attach the new line to steel line going to the engine. I couldn't get it on enough as I'm trying to attach it one handed as it's all I can reach it with. On top of that I can't see what I'm doing. After few attempts and some curse I realize I'll have to pull off the wheel on the other side which I was trying to avoid. So I loosen the lugs on the drivers side and jack up and secure the drivers side and pull the wheel off.
I see that the fuel line runs behind the master cylinder through a hole running underneath the car secured by plastic holder by a Phillips screw. Just for the heck of it I try to see if can get the kine on it this way but even here the line moves too much to get the new fuel line on. So I come up with the idea to pull the line thru the hole underneath and can hold the steel line securely with one hand and put the new one on with the idea. First I unscrew the plastic clip. Pull the fuel line thru the hole trying not to bend the steel line too much. Now being able to hold the line I attach the new fuel to steel line. It works great. I feed it back up thru the hole and reattach the plastic clip.
Now I go back to the other side. I slide the new hose clamps over the new hose. Obviously you won't be able to get them on with both ends attached. Now for the fun part of pulling the line from the tank attaching the new hose. You have to ready to do this quick as gas will pour out as soon as you pull the old line off. Have some rags ready to clean up spills.
Old fuel line.
So I pull off the old line of course some fuel pours, I quickly attach the new line. Tightening the hose clamps was a little tricky as it's a tight area to work in.
I've finally gotten around changing the oil in my Bug. I haven't driven it much this year so it was put off as other priorities and acts of procrastination got in the way. It's fairly simple process if you haven't done this before and maybe this will help if you haven't done it before.
Here are some items you'll probably need:
Oil & spout
Strainer gasket / VW oil change kit
1/4 ratchet & 10mm socket or 10mm wrench
drain pan
Floor jack/jack stands/ramps/wheel chocks or some means to raise rear end of vehicle.
Mineral spirits/brakes or parts cleaner
Oil
From my 74 Beetle Owners Manual.
A sure way to start a battle on a Volkswagen website or page is ask about what type of oil to use in your air cooled engine. Most of these engines were made in a time before multi grade oil so what was recommended in my owners manual for 74 Bug was anything from SAE 10 up to SAE 40. It usually depended on your climate or season you were in. When multi grade oils came along in the mid 70's VW recommended oils like SAE 15W-40 or SAE 20W-50 for air-cooled engines.
In my case I go with Castrol GTX SAE 20W-50. Castrol has an excellent reputation(in my opinion) and it may cost a little more than other brands but I'd rather have something of a better quality in an older engine. Plus I'm not putting a lot of miles on the car so if I spend a little more on oil it's not a big deal.
VW Oil Change Kit
Oil Change kit from Wolfsburg West
Another essential item is an oil change kit. These are usually few bucks on almost every VW parts site. They usually consist of thin cardboard gaskets and some tiny copper washers. The metal strainer/filter is reusable as long as it's not damaged or worn out.
Oil Change
Try to pick a level spot to work. Chock your wheels for safety. I'm assuming you know the engine is in the rear(you never know these days) so you can jack up and support the rear end. You can use ramps too if you prefer. It can be done with out being lifted but it's a bit awkward reach and difficult to inspect internals without a mirror.
Using a 10mm socket or wrench loosen the six nuts that hold plate on. As you go the oil will naturally start seeping out so it's good to have your drain pan already in place. At some point you can just let the oil drain out completely. Once done you can completely take off the cover.
New strainer.
You may need a screwdriver to pry out the strainer and gasket. Once out you can inspect it you can clean it with some parts cleaner and reuse it as long as it looks good. It's also a good idea to wipe clean the area where the strainer goes with rag. Replace the gasket then strainer then another gasket and finally the cover. I try to get all six nuts connected before tightening them down. Don't forget the tiny copper washers which I believe you can reuse or just use the new ones included with your gasket(they usually come as a set package). It can be a little tricky lining up all the holes so just be patient. The nuts only required about 5 pounds of torque so just a firm hand tightening is really all that is required as they could easily break off if you torque them too much.
Now your ready to do the most important part is to add oil. You'll only need about 3 quarts of oil. I usually get to the third quart and fill about 3/4 of it and then check the oil level. Then you can add more until you've reached the fill line.
You're now good to go now. Start it up and check for leaks. It's not to difficult and shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes from set up to clean up.
I finally got around to adjusting my valves in my 74 Bug and I thought I'd share my undertaking. I've heard repeatedly that this, and changing your oil, is one of things you should learn and be able to do on your vintage VW's. Although I'm not a newbie working on a car I've never done this before so I was a bit apprehensive about doing this at first.
I did some research on doing this and video's help me out a lot. One is a dvd series called Bug Me Video which are very helpful and on YouTube I usually check out Chris Vallone's Classic VW Bugs(see above videos) how-to videos which are very helpful. Another handy reference of course is the "How to keep your Volkswagen Alive" manual which was also very handy
A few things you'll need are:
A feeler gauge
Screwdriver - long blade if possible
Valve cover gaskets (Wolfsburg West part no. 113101481F)
13 mm wrench - a ratchet and 13mm socket may be used in initial loosening but open ended wrench works better for actual adjustment
Large adjustable wrench.
PB Blaster or your favorite equivalent penetrating oil
Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant(again or your favorite equivalent)
Rags
Patience
From "How to keep your Volkswagen alive"(19th Edition) by John Muir
I inspected the area and the valve cover was in arms length under the passenger rear of Bug which is where it is recommended you start. In one video it was recommended you take the rear tire off for easier access but I didn't (and I would later regret this decision). It is recommended you start at cylinder number 1 which is on the passenger side furthest to the front of the vehicle(see above picture).
Cylinder 1 is the two on the right.
First step is to pop the valve which is pried off with your large screwdriver.Once you move the bar holding it down the cover should come off easily if it hasn't already. To start at cylinder one You must set the engine to cylinder 1 as mentioned to before. I used my large adjustable wrench to turn the pulley wheel which has a notch in where TDC.
Starting with the first cylinder I loosen the nut on the rocker and insert the feeler gauge just behind it at (.006). Using my screwdriver I adjust the middle of the nut to just enough that it's just a light dragging and then tighten the nut. It took awhile to get it just right. It was a tough reach from my creeper and by now I'm already thinking I should have taken the wheel off like recommended but being stubborn and short on time I forged ahead. Kind of like other things in my life but thats another story.
Turning the pulley wheel 180 degree counterclockwise I did the number two cylinder switched the opposite side doing three and four. By the end I learned that I'll jack the car up and take wheels off to do it next.
Careful with gasket glue it can get on your clothes easily.
After that I replaced the valve covers after installing a new gasket. It's a good idea to use something like Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant which holds the gasket in place while installing and also help give it a good seal.
In summary I learned three major things:
How to adjust the valves.
Next time adjust valves remove wheels for easier access.
Also in future wear work clothes or at least something you won't mind accidentally rub red high tack gasket sealant on your nice khaki shorts.
I did take it for a test drive afterward and it did seem to have a little more pep in the higher gears. I was happy that worked out and won't be as intimidated doing it in the future.
I've recently came across this guy on
YouTube called Mustie1 and I've become addicted to his channel. He does a lot
of video's on VW's but he has videos of working everything from lawn
tractors to antique Honda trial bikes. He also has an unofficial series
called "Will it run?' in which he try and get something to run that's
been sitting for years. I admire his
ingenuity and just plain persistence he will usually get them running.
He's the type of mechanic that if he can't get it running no one can.
He's also has a positive attitude and you can tell he loves what he's
doing. Many of his videos are long but many times you want him to keep
going.
I believe that's Mustie1 filling out some paper work at VolksFair 2017
One of my favorite of his projects is a 59 VW single cab lumber yard truck he rescued from Tennessee. It turns out I had actually seen this truck at a VW show last which I had posted recently. I'm still going through the videos of him restoring it. He does some amazing work.
I was able to make in to this years VW's on the Hill in Cumberland, Rhode Island. It was again held at the Diamond Hill State Park as it was last year. It turned out to be an awesome day weather wise as the humidity that had been gripping the area recently broke after thunderstorms had gone threw the area the day before so it made for a pleasant day to see the beautiful Vw's that made it to the show this year.
I had hoped to bring my 74 Bug this year but I hadn't finished a project I was working on it yet and I had also discovered a gas leak that needs attention so I didn't feel safe making it over. Better luck for me next year.
Turn out seemed to be similar to last year although vendors at the swap meet area seemed a bit more sparse.
Here are some photo's I took:
Nice gold Super Beetle.
This one's from New Hampshire.
If I was to pick out a water-cooled VW's it would be one of these pickups.
A rare(at least I haven't seen them much) optional factory AC on this 70's Bug.
Clean interior on this Super Beetle.
I liked the custom slim bumper on this mid 70's Bug.
This had a Chevy 350 up front.
This oval was in the vendor area.
Modern day Beetle made it.
Clean and neat interior.
Herbie made an appearance.
I'd love to add this to my Bug
A special thanks to Vintage Volkswagen Sales out of Cumberland, Rhode Island for organizing the show and hope they do it again next year. Not only do they sell Vintage VW's they also offer key making services both generic and factory replica style keys. I'm forever grateful for them bailing me out last year year when I lost my one and only key. So be sure and check them out. Looking forward to next year already. Enjoy the pictures.
If their seems to be one constant I've noticed with older cars is that even while doing one repair you'll undoubtedly discover some other issue. I was working on the front beam when I glanced inward toward the center of the car and I notice a wet braided hose that was soaked and even had a white slime on it too. I dabbed my finger and smelled it: gas. Sure enough a few seconds later a slow drip fell. I just found the answer to my mysterious gas disappearance over the winter.
Just for a little back story when I had stored my vehicle for the winter I had topped of the tank. Come spring time I assumed I still had a full tank of gas. Then shortly after uncovering it it stopped running. I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start. Brand new battery and I assumed I had fuel. Well you know what the say about assuming. After some trouble shooting I figured out I wasn't getting any fuel. I thought maybe a clogged fuel line. Which led to me knocking on the fuel tank and hearing an empty echo. I uncovered the sending unit and sure enough..no gas. Where did it go? I had hardly driven it at all. I don't remember smelling gas, at least not more than usual. Threw a gallon of gas in and she started right up. I couldn't figure out where my gas went. I even replaced the old gas cap thinking it evaporated cause of a bad seal. Now a couple of months later the mystery has now been solved.
At first I'm thinking "Oh great I have to pull that tank out to fix this" and all kinds of panicking cause my hopes of going for my state inspection sticker went out the window as I don't think a leaking gas tank will pass a safety inspection. Oh well. After mulling it over I did some research on how to fix this and came across a how to video by JBugs(see video below). Now things didn't seem so bad as it seems like a straight forward repair. I ordered the necessary parts and will do the repair once they arrive.
I'll do a future post highlighting the repair work. I wonder what that repair will lead to. Thanks for coming by.
One of the iconic things about a Beetle is the horn. I hear the horn I still think of Herbie "The Love Bug". It's part of the Bug's personality and charm. It doesn't have the big boisterous horn American cars had in the 60's and 70's. It's more of a tinier and friendlier but still enough to say "Hey I'm here."and likely to bring a smile.
My Bug's horn did work but the steering wheel button didn't work. A previous owner had rigged up a button under the dash. It worked but was a awkward to use and and the ground wire had a tendency to wiggle off which added an aggravation factor on top of the awkwardness. Plus I knew this probably wouldn't pass the muster come state inspection time.
I reasoned that original problem lied in the horn button on the wheel didn't work hence the addition button on the dash. I researched the horn switch and found it reasonably priced but was on back order. I ordered it anyway as I had other stuff to do and winter was approaching so it wasn't an urgent item.
Fast forward to spring time I finally received the horn switch and decide to tackle this project. First step is to remove the plastic horn button cover from the steering wheel. Using a screwdriver I as able to pry the four corners off. One should be careful and not be too forceful prying as the cover is plastic and may break, you may have to work at it a bit. Once you get it off it is loose but still held in the middle. and you'll also see the horn wire going to the cover so don't just rip it off. Turn 90 degrees and the cover should now come off. You can then remove the wire.
Almost there. I see my horn wire but I still have to remove steering wheel to get to the horn ring. I believe it is a 24mm deep socket( I forgot to make note of it at the time) and an extension and good size rachet or breaker bar. I also soaked it with some Liquid Wrench as the that nut has probably been on there since Nixon was President(those were the days). I also put wheel in a locked position so the it wouldn't move. I don't remember it giving me a major problem.
Now it's just a matter of pulling the wheel off. A suggest marking the wheel before taking it off so you can line it up again. I forgot to do this so my wheel is a bit cockeyed, learn from my goof. You may need to wiggle it a bit but it should pull right off.
You'll now see the horn ring switch on the back of the wheel. It's only held on by three Phillips head screwdrivers. This is the easiest part. I removed the the three screws and installed the new ring. It only goes one way as the wire goes thru a hole and screw it in place. Now you just reinstall in reverse order. Hopefully you avoided my mistake by marking the wheel position ahead of time. Do as I say not as I did.
After I got it back together it still didn't work. I crawl underneath to see the horn is hooked up but it's hooked up to the rigged up horn button. I found the correct factory wire and hooked it back up to the horn. I pulled out the old wire as I have enough of rats nest behind the dash already. Now the horn works wonderfully. Like music to my ears!
I was able attend this years Volks-Fair in Shrewsbury, Massachusetts. It is on the grounds of Hebert's Candies. Unfortunately my Bug didn't make as it's not quite ready for the long trip just yet. Up to the day of it had been predicting thunderstorms but the weather held out but was still somewhat hot and humid. I thought I'd share some photos of many of fine VW's that showed up.
It was nice seeing more VW Thing's than last year.
Actual Herbie from "Herbie: Fully Loaded" movie starring Lindsey Lohan.
The exhaust tip was a nice touch.
A nice 54 Oval I had followed to the show(It was being towed by another VW).
You don't see too many of these stock never mind customized.
True.
Classy light green.
Love the exhaust.
Drive safely.
This wasn't even in the show itself. It should have been though.
This was towing the 54 Oval I noted in another picture. It's rare to see these in a later model year.
Classic lines and stance.
Lot's of swag on this Super Beetle soft top.
It was a great show. I'm already looking forward to next year's show. Thanks to The Bug Club for putting on the show and Hebert's Candies for hosting it once again.
